With 18mm thick material, there isn’t a lot of room for a domino. Gorilla original wood glue will be perfect for this application. Titebond 2 if you’re made of money.
My table top is held together by jointed edges and wood glue, as are my end grain boards as are most other panels I’ve put together. Quality wood glue is stronger than the lignin in the timber.
Reckon I bought this glue about 15 years ago. Still got about 2L left.
Just FYI while I was looking it up. Titebond is cheaper than Gorilla.
$22.95
$17.45
$26.50
That’s certainly the cheapest I’ve seen it, but you pay for postage at Carbatec vs gorilla at Mitre 10/Bunnings.
Titebond is good but I’ve found it dries too yellow and can show up a bit on Aussie hardwoods. Gorilla is a lot clearer when cured. Both are food safe I believe
Carbatec is just down the road from me!
Which means the Gorilla will be cheaper after I visit Carbatec…
The problem with clamps is very simple.
Number of clamps needed = What you have + one more you don’t have.
Fortunately TAFE school furniture class. Number of clamps = approx 200
Ah, so you were short one. 
Ha ha. This was a reco of a very old workbench and I only had an hour or two to spend on it. Time was the enemy as I had to sand and paint the frame as well. And build those stupid frames behind for the electricians to pretend they were tradesmen.
You could also use a 100mm strip on each end of the table (a breadboard end). Glue it in place, it becomes a point of difference to a plain top and can stabilise the two longer lengths by acting like a clamp holding the two sides together.
That’s the stuff. They have an ‘Ultimate’ one that I use more of in the workshop, but it isn’t foodsafe, so I have to buy both.
Bottle says leave clamped for 30 minutes. Can I just leave it clamped?
I regularly leave things like this clamped overnight. It can buckle and depending on moisture levels I have had things warp under clamps but I think you should be fine. It’s good to see you’ve clamped down onto the table as well as clamped the joint.
So construction mostly done. Sanding tomorrow. What would you recommend for pine for a good hard finish? I normally only use Danish oil so any recommendations would be appreciated. Prefer a ‘clear’ coat. Can tint it a bit but I want to see the grain. Thanks!
If you want to change the colour and still see the grain, I’ve been liking the Feast and Watson Prooftint you can find at Bunnings. My favourite is the ‘Black Japan’ which has all the benefits of ebonising timber without having to smell the dissolved steel wool
My go to finish on just about everything these days is osmo oil’s hard wax matte finish. It’s food safe when cured (touch dry after 2 hours but takes 20 days to fully cure) and it goes a long way. Expensive for a small tin but you’ll find it lasts a fair few projects.
You’ll be fine with danish oil though and you can find any hard wax polish and buff it on top. You could even just rub beeswax on top semi regularly and it will serve you well
