So we've just put in a new kitchen, and we've left the lighting until last.
I've got mate who's a sparky who can install downlights for us, but I don't know how to go about choosing/buying the actual LED downlights.
I've been into Beacon Lighting who are probably the most expensive considering they advertise on/sponsor The Block, and their downlights range from about $35 each to $120.
My sparky mate said he can get some for me for around $35, but I'm not sure what he can get yet, and don't want to muck him around too much.
A friend at work got hers through a place in Springvale for $19 each, and there are various sellers on ebay.
I suppose you get what you pay for, but I don't know what I need, and what makes some so exy?? Surely there's a standard rule of thumb like "anything under $40 is rubbish, anythng over $60 is for wankers and never buy them from ebay"??
We are also looking at putting more downlights in the lounge and dining areas, and the hall, so we may end up needing about 20 or so, and we would want them all to match - at least the fitting part. Nothing too fancy, but nothing that's dangerous either.
We aren't highlighting any art work or anything, so a wide beam would be preferable. Most of the lighting we would want to be warm/yellowish, but kitchen lighting not so much... And dimmable would be prefered...
I just called LEDified and their lights are basically $28 for the 5watt and $38 for the 10watt (MR16), plus the fitting is $6 each (white plastic or brushed chrome).
They will install for $120 per light (including the price of the light), plus $120 call out fee (if its for less than 10 lights).
At least they have a small selection which makes it easier...
I just called LEDified and their lights are basically $28 for the 5watt and $38 for the 10watt (MR16), plus the fitting is $6 each (white plastic or brushed chrome).
They will install for $120 per light (including the price of the light), plus $120 call out fee (if its for less than 10 lights).
At least they have a small selection which makes it easier...
I went through this. Quality is important with regards to the light, the width (how much spread as LEDs tend to be more focused, so 30 degrees as opposed to 60 degrees), the colour (cool white, soft white, warm white etc...) oh and the equivalent brightness to the old 50w versions. Going from 50w bulbs down to 6w LEDs meant the brightness in the room dropped dramatically. Particularly for a kitchen I feel you can never have enough. 6w in brand A also doesn't equal 6w in brand B with regards to how bright they are (which is a real pain).
It may not be an issue anymore for shop bought LEDs but a few of the cheaper versions tend to flicker a lot. Make sure yours don't!
LEDs are getting better though, but i'm not convinced they are perfect for bright room lighting yet.
buy the Robus IP44 10watt LED downlights. Make sure you buy the 3000K color output, not the 5000k. They have a 90 degree spread, so it should be a fairly even light output. Definitely dimmable, but you need to make sure you get the correct dimmers for LED.
You can also pick up a similar "Atom" fitting (suspect they come out of the same factory), i've used them in one or two places but had to get one replaced as it failed on plug-in.
If you prefer the traditional gimble downlight look, both brands will do them too. The deletion of the IP44 lens reduces the angle throw though, and you come back to the same sorts of output as normal downlights. From memory the widest spread is 60 degree. The Robus ones were designed to mimic the color and output of the old 50w Dicroic lamps, they were originally meant to be a retrofit item with a fairy standard 90mm cutout. The one thing i dislike about them (from a practical viewpoint) is that they default to the Australian Standard code for distance off timber joists etc, which is insane for an LED downlight. But as a "clean ceiling" you'll be able to space them accordingly.
All of these are plug-in kits, not hard wired. After initial install, if one ever fails (they should give you roughly 18 years in normal domestic use) you can just unplug and change, no need for a sparky.
buy the Robus IP44 10watt LED downlights. Make sure you buy the 3000K color output, not the 5000k. They have a 90 degree spread, so it should be a fairly even light output. Definitely dimmable, but you need to make sure you get the correct dimmers for LED.
You can also pick up a similar "Atom" fitting (suspect they come out of the same factory), i've used them in one or two places but had to get one replaced as it failed on plug-in.
If you prefer the traditional gimble downlight look, both brands will do them too. The deletion of the IP44 lens reduces the angle throw though, and you come back to the same sorts of output as normal downlights. From memory the widest spread is 60 degree. The Robus ones were designed to mimic the color and output of the old 50w Dicroic lamps, they were originally meant to be a retrofit item with a fairy standard 90mm cutout. The one thing i dislike about them (from a practical viewpoint) is that they default to the Australian Standard code for distance off timber joists etc, which is insane for an LED downlight. But as a "clean ceiling" you'll be able to space them accordingly.
All of these are plug-in kits, not hard wired. After initial install, if one ever fails (they should give you roughly 18 years in normal domestic use) you can just unplug and change, no need for a sparky.
tell em i sent you.
Disagree on the colour, I reckon the best output for domestic lighting is the 4000k.
But everyone has a different opinion on light output. The ones I have put in my house are the M-Elec 1box-90. First LED downright in the world to give out a 3000k, 4000k and 6000k all in have one downlight. The driver has an inbuilt memory, so when you switch it on it will default to 6000k, then you. Just switch it on and off at the switch to change to 4000k then again for 3000k. Once you've got the output you like then leave it for five seconds and the light will save that as it's default colour. If you ever want to change it, just a quick on and off again. IP44, seven year warranty, comes with a white or chrome trim and the LED panel is replaceable which not many brands have.
They're not cheap, but easily the best quality. Haven't seen anything in my time better than the M-Elec gear.
For a decent one around the 30-35 mark they're all pretty much the same, Robus, Domus, CLA, Vibe, plus a hundred others.
4000k? Maybe. Not many offer it though. Reckon its OK in kitchens, maybe bathrooms
6000k !!? Lol, please report to the operating theater, stat.
As you say, its very subjective and much depends on what the owner is coming from.
But if you can choose and vary then I guess that could be handy. The 1100 lumen is good from 12 watt, depending on where its measured at.
Yeh I will wouldn't be using the 6000k, not for domestic. Surprising how many people choose it though. I put it in a lot of retail and commercial jobs that we do.
I just like the flexibility of being able to choose. Get a lot of customers asking what colour is best and it's always subjective, I like the 4000k best, closest to natural light.
But all areas must be different as well. Our W.A. store sells something like 95% the natural white 4000K, where as we do about 95% cool white 5000K.
buy the Robus IP44 10watt LED downlights. Make sure you buy the 3000K color output, not the 5000k. They have a 90 degree spread, so it should be a fairly even light output. Definitely dimmable, but you need to make sure you get the correct dimmers for LED.
You can also pick up a similar "Atom" fitting (suspect they come out of the same factory), i've used them in one or two places but had to get one replaced as it failed on plug-in.
If you prefer the traditional gimble downlight look, both brands will do them too. The deletion of the IP44 lens reduces the angle throw though, and you come back to the same sorts of output as normal downlights. From memory the widest spread is 60 degree. The Robus ones were designed to mimic the color and output of the old 50w Dicroic lamps, they were originally meant to be a retrofit item with a fairy standard 90mm cutout. The one thing i dislike about them (from a practical viewpoint) is that they default to the Australian Standard code for distance off timber joists etc, which is insane for an LED downlight. But as a "clean ceiling" you'll be able to space them accordingly.
All of these are plug-in kits, not hard wired. After initial install, if one ever fails (they should give you roughly 18 years in normal domestic use) you can just unplug and change, no need for a sparky.
tell em i sent you.
Disagree on the colour, I reckon the best output for domestic lighting is the 4000k.
But everyone has a different opinion on light output. The ones I have put in my house are the M-Elec 1box-90. First LED downright in the world to give out a 3000k, 4000k and 6000k all in have one downlight. The driver has an inbuilt memory, so when you switch it on it will default to 6000k, then you. Just switch it on and off at the switch to change to 4000k then again for 3000k. Once you've got the output you like then leave it for five seconds and the light will save that as it's default colour. If you ever want to change it, just a quick on and off again. IP44, seven year warranty, comes with a white or chrome trim and the LED panel is replaceable which not many brands have.
They're not cheap, but easily the best quality. Haven't seen anything in my time better than the M-Elec gear.
For a decent one around the 30-35 mark they're all pretty much the same, Robus, Domus, CLA, Vibe, plus a hundred others.
What about for retro fit of halogen globes? Don't want to pull anything out of the roof, just plug the globe in.
Are these ones an option?
buy the Robus IP44 10watt LED downlights. Make sure you buy the 3000K color output, not the 5000k. They have a 90 degree spread, so it should be a fairly even light output. Definitely dimmable, but you need to make sure you get the correct dimmers for LED.
You can also pick up a similar "Atom" fitting (suspect they come out of the same factory), i've used them in one or two places but had to get one replaced as it failed on plug-in.
If you prefer the traditional gimble downlight look, both brands will do them too. The deletion of the IP44 lens reduces the angle throw though, and you come back to the same sorts of output as normal downlights. From memory the widest spread is 60 degree. The Robus ones were designed to mimic the color and output of the old 50w Dicroic lamps, they were originally meant to be a retrofit item with a fairy standard 90mm cutout. The one thing i dislike about them (from a practical viewpoint) is that they default to the Australian Standard code for distance off timber joists etc, which is insane for an LED downlight. But as a "clean ceiling" you'll be able to space them accordingly.
All of these are plug-in kits, not hard wired. After initial install, if one ever fails (they should give you roughly 18 years in normal domestic use) you can just unplug and change, no need for a sparky.
tell em i sent you.
Disagree on the colour, I reckon the best output for domestic lighting is the 4000k.
But everyone has a different opinion on light output. The ones I have put in my house are the M-Elec 1box-90. First LED downright in the world to give out a 3000k, 4000k and 6000k all in have one downlight. The driver has an inbuilt memory, so when you switch it on it will default to 6000k, then you. Just switch it on and off at the switch to change to 4000k then again for 3000k. Once you've got the output you like then leave it for five seconds and the light will save that as it's default colour. If you ever want to change it, just a quick on and off again. IP44, seven year warranty, comes with a white or chrome trim and the LED panel is replaceable which not many brands have.
They're not cheap, but easily the best quality. Haven't seen anything in my time better than the M-Elec gear.
For a decent one around the 30-35 mark they're all pretty much the same, Robus, Domus, CLA, Vibe, plus a hundred others.
What about for retro fit of halogen globes? Don't want to pull anything out of the roof, just plug the globe in.
Are these ones an option?
The normal Bi-pin halogen lamps? It depends on the brand. The issue is the new LED lamp won't always talk to the old halogen transformer so you may just end up with them strobing/flashing. Best thing to do is buy one, take it home and plug it in to three or four different down lights around the house and see what sort if result you get. If it flashes, then you can get a linking capacitor to plug into the lamp holder, then you plug the LED lamp into that, but by the time you pay for that it's nearly the cost of a brand new fitting.
Then there is also the option of buying a complete LED kit and driver which works fine, but only if you're replacing a transformer that has a plug on the end of it.
I'm yet to find an LED lamp to replace and old halogen lamp that I would "highly" recommend. There are some good ones out there, Philips is the best, but very freezing expensive, then there is another brand we've had a good run with called Plusrite.
buy the Robus IP44 10watt LED downlights. Make sure you buy the 3000K color output, not the 5000k. They have a 90 degree spread, so it should be a fairly even light output. Definitely dimmable, but you need to make sure you get the correct dimmers for LED.
You can also pick up a similar "Atom" fitting (suspect they come out of the same factory), i've used them in one or two places but had to get one replaced as it failed on plug-in.
If you prefer the traditional gimble downlight look, both brands will do them too. The deletion of the IP44 lens reduces the angle throw though, and you come back to the same sorts of output as normal downlights. From memory the widest spread is 60 degree. The Robus ones were designed to mimic the color and output of the old 50w Dicroic lamps, they were originally meant to be a retrofit item with a fairy standard 90mm cutout. The one thing i dislike about them (from a practical viewpoint) is that they default to the Australian Standard code for distance off timber joists etc, which is insane for an LED downlight. But as a "clean ceiling" you'll be able to space them accordingly.
All of these are plug-in kits, not hard wired. After initial install, if one ever fails (they should give you roughly 18 years in normal domestic use) you can just unplug and change, no need for a sparky.
tell em i sent you.
Disagree on the colour, I reckon the best output for domestic lighting is the 4000k.
But everyone has a different opinion on light output. The ones I have put in my house are the M-Elec 1box-90. First LED downright in the world to give out a 3000k, 4000k and 6000k all in have one downlight. The driver has an inbuilt memory, so when you switch it on it will default to 6000k, then you. Just switch it on and off at the switch to change to 4000k then again for 3000k. Once you've got the output you like then leave it for five seconds and the light will save that as it's default colour. If you ever want to change it, just a quick on and off again. IP44, seven year warranty, comes with a white or chrome trim and the LED panel is replaceable which not many brands have.
They're not cheap, but easily the best quality. Haven't seen anything in my time better than the M-Elec gear.
For a decent one around the 30-35 mark they're all pretty much the same, Robus, Domus, CLA, Vibe, plus a hundred others.
What about for retro fit of halogen globes? Don't want to pull anything out of the roof, just plug the globe in.
Are these ones an option?
The normal Bi-pin halogen lamps? It depends on the brand. The issue is the new LED lamp won't always talk to the old halogen transformer so you may just end up with them strobing/flashing. Best thing to do is buy one, take it home and plug it in to three or four different down lights around the house and see what sort if result you get. If it flashes, then you can get a linking capacitor to plug into the lamp holder, then you plug the LED lamp into that, but by the time you pay for that it's nearly the cost of a brand new fitting.
Then there is also the option of buying a complete LED kit and driver which works fine, but only if you're replacing a transformer that has a plug on the end of it.
I'm yet to find an LED lamp to replace and old halogen lamp that I would "highly" recommend. There are some good ones out there, Philips is the best, but very freezing expensive, then there is another brand we've had a good run with called Plusrite.
Yeah, 2pin M16 I think they're called. I tried a cheap one from masters, and yeah it strobes, and Philips is next on my list. The halogens don't last that long and tend to yellow relatively quickly.
Amazing how expensive they are.
MR16 victim here: 18 of the damn things in a 45 sqm unit… Why the hell would I want a megawatt of lighting in that much space?
I tried a couple cheapy LED MR16s — I get a burst of light when you flick the switch, then it cuts out. That means I have new-ish transformers, right? The place was renovated within the past decade.
The Mr 16 lamps aren’t great IMO. Phillips had - maybe still do - a 9 watt that was OK, but they had a small fan built into the heat sink and apparently in quiet rooms you could hear the fans, lol. They also cost around $40 !!!
The LEDs will flicker with newish electronic transformers but usually run OK with older iron core trans. The issue seems to revolve around some transformers requiring a minimum load of 20 watts. Under that and the transformer cycles on and off. You could try to wire two or three lamps off one transformer but the effort would be better spent on new fittings IMO.
The Mr 16 lamps aren't great IMO. Phillips had - maybe still do - a 9 watt that was OK, but they had a small fan built into the heat sink and apparently in quiet rooms you could hear the fans, lol. They also cost around $40 !!!!
The LEDs will flicker with newish electronic transformers but usually run OK with older iron core trans. The issue seems to revolve around some transformers requiring a minimum load of 20 watts. Under that and the transformer cycles on and off. You could try to wire two or three lamps off one transformer but the effort would be better spent on new fittings IMO.
Yeh we did a job with the Philips ones and got the same feedback, light output is great but the heat fan is annoying. They have since released a 5W and 6W version without the fan but they are still freaking expensive.
Still, the light output from a brand new downlight is always much more impressive than an old halogen or anything that will be retrofit into the old fittings.