As in twist it?
Or moving the attachment to the right (looking at that pic ) ?
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Either way not sure, but shouldn’t be overly difficult.
They normally just screw to a stud thing above the plaster ceiling. Sometimes there’s not one in the exact right place so the sparkie’s just used the closest one.
Normally not too hard to screw a bit of wood in the right place.
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Attach to the ceiling with stainless steel wire at both ends.
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Yeah just twist it to align with the bench (or at least parallel), looks crooked at the moment.
Thinking getting some non-ugly wire to hold it in place. Thanks all aopreciated
Mate, if you want an easy fix just hold it where you want it and put a drop of gorilla glue or super glue in the thread
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Our place has definitely sunk a little on one side, causing issues with doors closing etc… We could treat the symptoms, but that may be counter-productive longer-term. Thankfully, our stumps are concrete, so I assume it is ‘just’ a case of jacking & packing to relevel. Maybe it can be fixed without removing the floorboards. But really, I have no idea what we are in for in terms of cost / disruption / benefit. Does anyone have experience with this? Any trustworthy, reliable operators out there servicing the inner North?
A mate from work had some resin stuff pumped in. Expensive but less disruptive.
Inner north?
It’ll go back to where it was once this rain farks off
Could be.
Hard to be sure, but I think it’s been heading this way for a couple of years now. Got much worse maybe 6-12 months ago though.
Brick veneer? A key aspect is to look for cracks and stress lines in the external mortar lines. Even worse are cracks through actual bricks, this can (but not always) indicate a structural issue as contrary to many peoples thoughts, the brickwork shouldn’t really be load bearing.
I’ve used a bottle jack a few times to lift bearers and then pack underneath. We had “decent” headroom to get at them though, at least 40cm even in the worst spots. It works better on external walls than mid span “stumps” for several reasons, but can often fix sticking doors and windows. Of course, you need to identify the localised low / high points and lift to suit. My old living room had obvious fall into one corner and I managed to level it out reasonably well. But I also put in a laminated beam in the roof to allow removal of a loaded stud for a set of internal french doors and over a couple of years they gradually settled out of level with each other, and jacking a stump then caused issues with the front door, lol. I never really got it sorted properly, I ended up planing one door a bit and accepted it wasn’t perfect. The soil at my place (outer east) is extremely reactive and everything constantly shifts. Frustrating.
But the underlying cause is the big problem. If it’s shrinking/ expanding soil and clay, then you can solve it for now and find it’s worse in the opposite season.
If it’s actually a problem with a footing or pier(s) under the stumps then your only real solution is to identify it (the first paragraph is connected to this) and underpin the wall, or pressure inject the relevant footings, or start replacing stump pads. Identifying a common relative level is a critical first step for this, and I’d strongly recommend a professional opinion.
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Thanks for that. It is a weatherboard CalBung nr Merri Creek with 2 story extension done maybe 18 years ago (previous owners). The house faces West & the sag is down the Northern side. A wardrobe that runs South-North has clearly sagged about an inch since I painted it in late 2020. The double front door has been struggling to close for a year or two, so the issue starts at least from the middle of the house.
I guess timing does align with our three La Ninas in a row. If it were rain-related though, I assume it is not sagging to the North, but swelling elsewhere?
Any thoughts on who to get a professional opinion from? There are a few re-stumpers around who do jacking & packing, but there is always the risk that they create work for themselves that nature would fix over time …
Based on all that, I’d be tempted to get a builder to have a quick look before restumpers. Particularly at the sub floor structure and piers on that north side. Or if you can get under there yourself, look for damp ground, rotting timber etc. It could actually be a drainage problem on the north edge etc. Lots of variables, unfortunately, plus you have the load transference of the 2nd storey works.
But, most likely, this will be a soil/water issue. Especially around Merri Creek and with the rainfall we’ve had. It might correct itself if summer ever arrives. Might.
I’ll have a think about possible names, if I can come up with some I’ll PM you.
Thanks Saladin
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So I’ve just picked myself off the floor after receiving a quote to replace an old timber sliding door with an aluminium door.
A tradition 3 panel slider (windows each side of one sliding door, nothing fancy) with double glazing. installed…$15k !
Am I completely out of touch or is this a p!sstake? Anyone in the know?
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Anything with double glazing is very expensive and not made by many places.
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Mine cost $3,500 but a little smaller and not double glazed. I also did the necessary building works e.g. making the hole the right size for the door to fit into (this included installing the appropriate beam above the door) and the various trim to go around it after fitting.
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We had a double one quoted a few months back, 10k ish
I don’t get it. Alu frame, can’t be more than a couple of hundred in materials. 2 x sheets of toughened glass, sheet of the tough steel mesh.
Custom made and blah blah blah, but seriously… love to know the markup.
Agree HAP, It feels like they a pricing for not wanting the business.
We had commercial grade aluminium french doors installed on our garage mid last year by a different company for ~$3500. Yes they are shorter by a 1/3 in width than the sliding door/window, and don’t have double glazing but I can’t see how that difference would equate to 11-12 thousand dollars. Insane.
Looks like its back to sourcing more quotes and more companies not returning phone calls/emails.
Anyone got any tips on what to look for in terms of a solar power set up?
We’re not eligible for the state grant for PVs, but it’s come up often enough that we’re beginning to look into it properly.
Get the best inverter with the longest warranty your budget can afford. The panels are less important in terms of cost and power conversion.
At least that was the advice I was given before we installed ours 3 years ago.
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