On the positive front:
The Hound was my clear favourite character. Flawed, murderous, sardonic, world weary and a fleeting core of right and wrong, I loved this bloke. He kept me going through some unenjoyable episodes. . Not far behind was Ayra, whom was beautifully done by Williams. A psychopathic nutter in child form who was somehow both utterly remorseless and also quaintly funny at times. Despite some misgivings for even these two at the hands of the writers late, I thought they were fairly consistent. Not 100% sold on how the Hound was wrapped up, but that was more about some flaws in what they made Gregor than what Sandor did.
The early seasons were outright great, as much due to the constant, but largely latent, tension present. Having never read the books, Neds fate was totally jarring to me, and The Black Watch storyline promised so much in ambience by only hinting obliquely at what they faced.
Sansa grew on me, transitioning from timid and helpless to very self aware and ruthless. Very plausibly done.
Ygritte was a very engaging character, ironic humour in just the right measure.
I thought Bran was largely underutilized for a role that held so much promise, but I was intrigued by the idea he represented. I’m still not really clear on his true value/place within Westeros though. The previous Raven lived for eons and became part tree?
The White Walkers were far more menacing than their King once he arrived, imo. They could/should have expanded heavily on them, and for me the adventures beyond the wall were more interesting and “mythological” than the Dragon Queen travails. Wanted to see more of them and their effect on those on and North of the wall.
I thought Snow was a great character until late.
I don’t think I’ve seen a character on TV that I’ve more wanted to see die than Joffrey. And then Ramsay showed up. I found some of the violence/cruelty gratuitous (especially S3 iirc) and uncalled for, but I cannot deny I was invested in their demise.
And Cersei. I thought Lena Headey was outstanding with the character (again, writing failings late weren’t her doing), a threatening, brooding sociopath of a woman. Arguably the best drawn character in consistency from S1 to S8, though perhaps I underplay Tyrion a touch.
I’m glad we did the hard yards and watched it all. I can see why some laud it as one of TV’s great shows. And also why some think it a great disappointment. I’d say it managed to be both across it’s run time.