I was enjoying my new bike until I started getting flats again. The old clydesdale was heavy but the alligator tyres meant I didn't get punctures. The new steed is lighter but the tyres are soft and the tubes are like tissue paper. I pumped them up as much as I could but 3 flats in a fortnight meant shifting one of my old thick skins to the back wheel, and I noticed the weight diff straight away. Love the way the new one takes me up the steep end of Stanley's Road to Tar Barrel Corner without needing oxygen and I don't want 2 heavy tyres but the arthritis in my hands means I shudder every time I get a flat.
Can anyone recommend tyres that are lighter but have a bit of resistance? The ones Bike 99 provided were first skewered by what looked to me like a fairly innocuous packing box staple. Then the front one followed a few days later and I replaced the tube but I just took it for a spin and it's deflating again. Not fun.
What size wheels are you running?
I’ve been using Panaracer Race D (EVO 3) in 700x25 over the last 12 months and they have been terrific.
I was getting 3500-4000km out of Conti GP4000sII (on the rear), the Panaracers I can get 5000km, and are more puncture resistant, and very grippy as well.
Don’t over inflate. That could be your problem.
with the 25mm tires, I don’t put more than 80 PSI. If you go for 28mm, you can certainly ride at 70 PSI.
Over inflation makes tyres more puncture prone IMO.
I was enjoying my new bike until I started getting flats again. The old clydesdale was heavy but the alligator tyres meant I didn't get punctures. The new steed is lighter but the tyres are soft and the tubes are like tissue paper. I pumped them up as much as I could but 3 flats in a fortnight meant shifting one of my old thick skins to the back wheel, and I noticed the weight diff straight away. Love the way the new one takes me up the steep end of Stanley's Road to Tar Barrel Corner without needing oxygen and I don't want 2 heavy tyres but the arthritis in my hands means I shudder every time I get a flat.
Can anyone recommend tyres that are lighter but have a bit of resistance? The ones Bike 99 provided were first skewered by what looked to me like a fairly innocuous packing box staple. Then the front one followed a few days later and I replaced the tube but I just took it for a spin and it's deflating again. Not fun.
What size wheels are you running?
I’ve been using Panaracer Race D (EVO 3) in 700x25 over the last 12 months and they have been terrific.
I was getting 3500-4000km out of Conti GP4000sII (on the rear), the Panaracers I can get 5000km, and are more puncture resistant, and very grippy as well.
Don’t over inflate. That could be your problem.
with the 25mm tires, I don’t put more than 80 PSI. If you go for 28mm, you can certainly ride at 70 PSI.
Over inflation makes tyres more puncture prone IMO.
Cheers, I probably have overinflated but I was told previously that I underinflated my old bike and the guy who recently sold me this one said to push it up to near 100 psi. It’s an entry level budget roadie, Merida Scultura 4000, and the tyres they’ve supplied are Continental Ultrasport 23mm max 8.5 bar/120PSI, whatever that means. They are light and they seem to handle OK but I imagine they’re not top shelf.The tubes are like tissue paper, is that normal?
Lots of uneven rough roads round here and when they put in bike paths they make sure they lay them over rabid tree roots. But there are also too many hills where I want to ride. I guess it’s a balance between weight and durability. I’ll do some research on the tyres you use. I appreciate your advice.
I was enjoying my new bike until I started getting flats again. The old clydesdale was heavy but the alligator tyres meant I didn't get punctures. The new steed is lighter but the tyres are soft and the tubes are like tissue paper. I pumped them up as much as I could but 3 flats in a fortnight meant shifting one of my old thick skins to the back wheel, and I noticed the weight diff straight away. Love the way the new one takes me up the steep end of Stanley's Road to Tar Barrel Corner without needing oxygen and I don't want 2 heavy tyres but the arthritis in my hands means I shudder every time I get a flat.
Can anyone recommend tyres that are lighter but have a bit of resistance? The ones Bike 99 provided were first skewered by what looked to me like a fairly innocuous packing box staple. Then the front one followed a few days later and I replaced the tube but I just took it for a spin and it's deflating again. Not fun.
What size wheels are you running?
I’ve been using Panaracer Race D (EVO 3) in 700x25 over the last 12 months and they have been terrific.
I was getting 3500-4000km out of Conti GP4000sII (on the rear), the Panaracers I can get 5000km, and are more puncture resistant, and very grippy as well.
Don’t over inflate. That could be your problem.
with the 25mm tires, I don’t put more than 80 PSI. If you go for 28mm, you can certainly ride at 70 PSI.
Over inflation makes tyres more puncture prone IMO.
Cheers, I probably have overinflated but I was told previously that I underinflated my old bike and the guy who recently sold me this one said to push it up to near 100 psi. It’s an entry level budget roadie, Merida Scultura 4000, and the tyres they’ve supplied are Continental Ultrasport 23mm max 8.5 bar/120PSI, whatever that means. They are light and they seem to handle OK but I imagine they’re not top shelf.The tubes are like tissue paper, is that normal?
Lots of uneven rough roads round here and when they put in bike paths they make sure they lay them over rabid tree roots. But there are also too many hills where I want to ride. I guess it’s a balance between weight and durability. I’ll do some research on the tyres you use. I appreciate your advice.
100 PSI for 23mm tyre is ok.
Better going for something wider though. 25 or 28mm will give you a much more comfortable ride, won’t be any slower and you can run a lower pressure (depending upon your weight). Conti Ultra sport aren’t a great tyre. If you want to stay with Contis get the GP 4000sII (better performance) or Gatorskins (better puncture protection, less grip).
Tubes - not normally ultra thin unless you’re running latex tubes?
Cheers. I had Gatorskins on the old Scott bike and then shifted to Scwalbe Durano Plus (someone here recommended them, might have been you?) when a Gatorskin finally shredded. I’ve shifted one of the Duranos to the back wheel of the new bike. They’re possibly a touch lighter than Gatorskins but they’re heavier than the Continentals. BTW I just looked at the punctured tubes and they’re Taiwanese - Cheng Shin Super-thin - and they ain’t kidding. I get the feeling they’ve set the bike up to be as light as possible at a low cost.
PS I still love the new bike and it handles much better than anything I’ve had before - which isn’t saying that much.
I probably dont need another bike but is that a fair price for a second hand propel?
Giant Propel ADVANCE 2016 with Ultegra DI2 (electric shifting), S size for sell. Suits 164-175cm I believe. A really good and decent bike which can help you in your triathlon. 2700 without crank arm Power Meter 3200 with Power Meter 170mm . Please help me spread to any of your friends that would love you get one cause I am leaving Tasmania soon. Come with everything including bottle cage, saddles back and front light, exclude Garmin.
I probably dont need another bike but is that a fair price for a second hand propel?
Giant Propel ADVANCE 2016 with Ultegra DI2 (electric shifting), S size for sell. Suits 164-175cm I believe. A really good and decent bike which can help you in your triathlon. 2700 without crank arm Power Meter 3200 with Power Meter 170mm . Please help me spread to any of your friends that would love you get one cause I am leaving Tasmania soon. Come with everything including bottle cage, saddles back and front light, exclude Garmin.
$2700? With Ultegra DI2? Sounds like a bargain.
The Di2 is worth $1500 alone!
Does anyone here have experience of any of the cheaper non garmin gps computers? Are they all crap except for Garmin? I’ve seen the Garmin edge 20 for around $170. Is it crap? It looks so small.
I don’t want a heart monitor, I’ve got enough things alarming me already.
I reckon I missed the boat on the discontinued garmin edge 500 which were going for around the same price on 99 bikes but are now sold out.
Does anyone here have experience of any of the cheaper non garmin gps computers? Are they all crap except for Garmin? I've seen the Garmin edge 20 for around $170. Is it crap? It looks so small.
I don't want a heart monitor, I've got enough things alarming me already.
I reckon I missed the boat on the discontinued garmin edge 500 which were going for around the same price on 99 bikes but are now sold out.
The Polar M450 gets reasonable reviews ($150 on Wiggle).
Potentially some issues with powermeter integration with Ant+
Garmin are still probably the market leader, however, they are hardly faultless - too many of my mates have had them go bad on them. Both the 520 and the 820 are reasonable good units.
Two useful bits of frankenbiking information I found out over christmas -
I can use 29er wheels on road/cx bikes when I want a wider rim as they are same diameter as 700c. Cheaper and easier to source than wide road bike rims.
I’ve never been very interested in electronic shifting previously, but it seems you can hack the line and put in a junction box, and then install several switching points - so you can change gears from multiple places, e.g. hoods, tops and TT bars.
Does anyone here have experience of any of the cheaper non garmin gps computers? Are they all crap except for Garmin? I've seen the Garmin edge 20 for around $170. Is it crap? It looks so small.
I don't want a heart monitor, I've got enough things alarming me already.
I reckon I missed the boat on the discontinued garmin edge 500 which were going for around the same price on 99 bikes but are now sold out.
I have now got a carbon tubular wheel. recommendations of tyres.
I have been loking at getting the continental compeitions. Have also heard good things about Vittoria Corsa.
Never having installed Tubular tyres before is it best I take it to a Local bike shop for installation?
I know I’ll need a pair of tubeless valves and my Assault SLG wheels are tubeless ready, but what’s the go with gluing etc…? Also, I can’t seem to find any confirmation that the Conti Gatorskin tyres will be compatible…although, I cannot find any info to say they aren’t, either…
I know I’ll need a pair of tubeless valves and my Assault SLG wheels are tubeless ready, but what’s the go with gluing etc…? Also, I can’t seem to find any confirmation that the Conti Gatorskin tyres will be compatible…although, I cannot find any info to say they aren’t, either…
tia
Contis are not tubeless. You’ll need to look elsewhere.
What you need to do is get some tubeless rim tape and fit that.
You’ll want to put some gunk in the tyre as well, something like stans no tubes.
You might need a high pressure air charger as well to get the tyre to “pop” onto the rim. It’s pretty hard to do with a standard floor pump - if you don’t have a high pressure compressor. (http://www.pushys.com.au/airshot-tyre-inflator.html)
In terms of tubeless road tyres the selection is quite small for road tyres:
Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless
Panaracer Race A Evo3 Tubless
Couple of choices from Maxxis
Specialized Roubaix Tubeless
Couple of choices from Hutchinson
Vittoria Corsa Speed Tubeless
Bontrager R3 Tubeless.
Some of these are quite expensive. (eg the Specialized)
Yeah, I figured out about the Conti’s. A shame as I really like them for reliability. I guess this is the point of tubeless though…doing away with the added security of puncture resistance for…the added security of puncture resistance.
Pretty sure the Assault wheels are tubeless ready, at least this is how they advertised, so I really just need a new set of hoops to suit. I’d been under the impression that some gluing was required, but those good chaps at GCN have set me straight. The high pressure air charger may be an issue though…
